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{ "url": "https://mailman.amsat.org/hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/email/GKMZQKTLOAJJ4AOUKDIOBJMLOMZQ6QHI/", "mailinglist": "https://mailman.amsat.org/hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/", "message_id": "[email protected]", "message_id_hash": "GKMZQKTLOAJJ4AOUKDIOBJMLOMZQ6QHI", "thread": "https://mailman.amsat.org/hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/thread/GKMZQKTLOAJJ4AOUKDIOBJMLOMZQ6QHI/", "sender": { "address": "TexasRF (a) aol.com", "mailman_id": null, "emails": null }, "sender_name": "[email protected]", "subject": "[amsat-bb] Re: [Mw] Pre Fab Coax sections", "date": "2009-05-22T01:17:28Z", "parent": null, "children": [ "https://mailman.amsat.org/hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/email/MIEFNAX66OBDEZLVV6VVZYCR2KREEEP6/", "https://mailman.amsat.org/hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/email/YYFOBSFC6PH2HTNRT7FRULXUVM7WD2RG/" ], "votes": { "likes": 0, "dislikes": 0, "status": "neutral" }, "content": " \nThis is certainly a novel approach to making UG21 connectors work with \nLMR400 cable. But, considering you can buy brand new N connectors with silver \nplated center pin for only $5.95 (at Texas Towers) it seems like a lot of \nwork to maybe reuse an old connector. New UG21 connectors cost as much as one \nthat fits properly so there is no cost savings going that route.\n \nRegular L:MR400 uses a copper plated aluminum center conductor. Messing \nwith the center conductor on that cable is going to damage the copper plating; \n making it impossible to solder.\n \n73,\nGerald Williamson K5GW\nGeneral Manager/Texas Towers\n \n \n \nIn a message dated 5/21/2009 8:00:02 P.M. Central Daylight Time, \[email protected] writes:\n\nGlenn Little and others,\n\nThere is a neat way to use type N connectors on LMR400 and LMR400UF. I \nwrote \nan article for QST/QEX on the method and passed it to Ray Mack, W5IFS, who \nis an editor for QEX. He has not passed the article on as yet, though. \nBasically, the diameter of the inner conductor is too large for the \ntypical \nN connector, therefore that diameter must be reduced to fit. The way to do \nthat reduction effectively when you are making up a number of cables is to \nmake a set of \"Center Conductor Reduction Dies.\" Start with inch-long \nsections of 3/8-inch cold rolled steel and drill all the way through each \npiece with a series of numbered drills starting with the largest drill \nthat \nis the diameter of the center conductor and ending with the drill that \njust \nenters the center pin of the N connector. This work is best done on a \nmetal \nworking lathe to get a concentric hole. Center drill the entry end to \nprovide a starting chamfer. Using a thin cutoff wheel in your Dremel \nMoto-Tool, make two cross cuts on the centerline to about 1/8-inch below \nthe \nchamfer on that end and once on the other end without a chamfer. Now, \nusing \nthe dies in descending sequence, chuck the die in an electric drill. Strip \nthe end of the cable and expose a little more of the center conductor than \nis needed. Insert the cable into the reduction die and spin the drill \nmotor \nuntil the end reaches the insulation (there will be a short section of \nunreduced center conductor). Reverse the die in the drill and finish the \ncut \nto the insulation. Move to the next die. Occasionally, trim the copper \nflash \nthat develops. Stop when the center conductor enters the center pin of the \nN \nconnector. For LMR400UF, you must make the center conductor a solid \nconductor by tinning the exposed center conductor. Again, inspect the face \nof the insulation and remove any copper flash to prevent a possible short. \nNow, you can assemble the cable to the N connector just as you would \nassemble it using RG8 cable. The cutting edges of the reduction die are \nthose slots that you cut using the Dremel (you could do it with a hack saw \nas I did at first, but the Dremel is much faster). I have assembled about \n40 \nN-M and N-F connectors to LMR400 cables using this method which really \nbeats \ntrying to reduce the center conductor with a file when you have many \nconnectors to install.\n\n73,\n\nLloyd Crawford, N5GDB, EM10bf\[email protected]\nRoadrunners Microwave Group\n----- Original Message ----- \nFrom: \"D. McGarrett\" <[email protected]>\nTo: \"Glenn Little WB4UIV\" <[email protected]>\nCc: \"Microwave list\" <[email protected]>; \"'Amsat - BBs'\" \n<[email protected]>; \"Jim Sanford\" <[email protected]>\nSent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 6:41 PM\nSubject: Re: [Mw] [amsat-bb] Pre Fab Coax sections\n\n\n> Glenn Little WB4UIV wrote:\n>> If you like throwing money at the problem, try Pasternack.\n>>\n>> 5 feet at $83.00 at S. M. Electronics.\n>> 5 feet at $78.25 at Pasternack.\n>>\n>> I always build my own. That way I can only blame myself for bad cables.\n>>\n>> 73\n>> Glenn\n>> WB4UIV\n>>\n>>\n>>\n> I don't have a solution for you, but when I was a working engineer, I\n> found that Pasternack was one of\n> the most expensive solutions (to anything!) there was. I never heard of\n> S.M. Electronics. Google will\n> give you a list of connector manufacturers and sales people. I'm with\n> Glenn--build your own! LMR-xx cable is a product of Times\n> Microwave. Excellent cable!\n> (If you can use LMR-400, it will be a lot cheaper, but you _can't_ use\n> regular type N connectors on it.)\n> On the other hand, type N connectors are a lot easier to use than the GD\n> UHF connectors, and\n> work a heck of a lot better--but you probably know that already.\n> _______________________________________________\n> Microwave mailing list\n> [email protected]\n> http://www.valinet.com/mailman/listinfo/microwave\n> \n\n\n_______________________________________________\nMicrowave mailing list\[email protected]\nhttp://www.valinet.com/mailman/listinfo/microwave\n\n\n\n\n**************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in \nthe U.S. \n(http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week?ncid=emlcntustrav00000002)\n", "attachments": [] }