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GET /hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/email/HSR77S2E67F5A6O6MA363WSYB57W74F3/
{ "url": "https://mailman.amsat.org/hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/email/HSR77S2E67F5A6O6MA363WSYB57W74F3/", "mailinglist": "https://mailman.amsat.org/hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/", "message_id": "[email protected]", "message_id_hash": "HSR77S2E67F5A6O6MA363WSYB57W74F3", "thread": "https://mailman.amsat.org/hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/thread/XDLUGDMA3CURTM7EVGO3UCMURCFB4TEU/", "sender": { "address": "w5ggw (a) cox.net", "mailman_id": null, "emails": null }, "sender_name": "Gregg Wonderly", "subject": "[amsat-bb] Re: Running Rotors on A/C Inverters ?", "date": "2007-09-24T15:46:39Z", "parent": "https://mailman.amsat.org/hyperkitty/api/list/[email protected]/email/XDLUGDMA3CURTM7EVGO3UCMURCFB4TEU/", "children": [], "votes": { "likes": 0, "dislikes": 0, "status": "neutral" }, "content": "Here in the middle of the US, SAMs Club sells a 500watt inverter that I've had \nvery good luck with, as long as you use appropriately sized feed wire (#10 in \ngeneral for ~10ft run) and supply voltage. The price is less than $30.00 and it \ncomes with a carrying case.\n\nI have mine outfitted with Anderson Power Pole connectors and harnesses to allow \nme to connect it to a wide range of DC sources. Normally, it is just plugged \ninto my jack block in the vehicle.\n\nPower source issues:\nMy 1997 honda accord needs to be running with a well charged battery to keep the \nlow voltage alarm from going off (directly wired to battery). My 2001 Dodge \nDakota will operate, engine off, no problem for quite some time. So, it really \nis important to manage the incomming voltage source appropriately or else the \ncurrent rate will increase. The output power, requires the right number of \nwatts of input power. Depending on the design of the device, a low voltage \nsituation can cause the current rate to reach a level that will damage the device.\n\nGregg Wonderly\n\nReicher, James wrote:\n> I've had good results running my HD73 rotor, using a 300W inverter,\n> purchased from a big-box store discounter, for about $40.\n> \n> I bought it initially to run a 13\" TV with a built-in VCR in the car for\n> my harmonics when on long trips. It uses a lot more wattage (140 watts)\n> than the rotor does and I've never had an issue with it cutting out or\n> blowing a fuse. \n> \n> 73 de N8AU, Jim in Raymore, MO\n> \n> Light travels faster than sound... This is why some people appear\n> bright until you hear them speak.\n> \n> Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:24:23 -0500\n> From: \"Rhett Duke\" <[email protected]>\n> Subject: [amsat-bb] Running Rotors on A/C Inverters ?\n> To: [email protected]\n> Message-ID:\n> \t<[email protected]>\n> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1\n> \n> Hello All,\n> I have a old Alliance HD-73 azimuth rotor and a Kenpro KR-500\n> elevation rotor.At present time I cant set up at my home on a\n> permanent basis but would like to run a setup on a spare utility\n> trailer that I can work from in a field behind my house...problem is\n> no A/C power.....I am curious what size a/c inverter would be\n> recommended for this type of load......I'm currently taking the ARRL\n> Analog Electronics course and am learning how to figure such things\n> but I'm not comfortable making calculations for a real world situation\n> that involves motors at this time. I am also aware that you have to be\n> carefull with what \"quality\" of inverter you choose.....some of the\n> cheaper units you buy at discount places are WAY overrated.....I'm\n> looking for something thats a good VALUE....Thanks\n> \n> 73\n> \n> KI4OVO\n> \n> AMSAT # 36579\n> \n", "attachments": [] }